48 Hours in Copenhagen – What We Ate

Copenhagen has some of the best and unique food in the world.  Unfortunately for my food-loving Husband, we didn’t try any of it.  It’s just not my scene, guys – I don’t think I could ever promise to be interested in a classic Noma meal or a trip around the iconic food markets.

I do however have my favourites – places I will go back to time and time again because I know I’m going to have an excellent meal.  They’re not to everyone’s liking, perhaps a bit safe or not particularly exciting, but they make me happy.

Always number one on my list is Halifax burger.  This was the very first restaurant we visited in CPH 8 years ago, and we joked that this was the main reason for our visit this time.  It sounds extreme – travelling 600 miles just to eat a burger – but this is an exceptional burger.  We visited the Amager restaurant on this trip (having previously been to both their Larsbjørnsstræde location on multiple occasions, and the Frederiksberg location) and once again received an amazing welcome from the staff.

I love this chain so much that I have their artwork up in my kitchen at home, and I was delighted to see a mural of theirs on the side of their building.

Another restaurant I go out of my way to visit is Gorms Pizza, specifically their branch next to Fields Mall.  I wouldn’t normally recommend a mall restaurant, but I just love the set up of this location – amphitheatre-style seating, and we got seated right at the top.  Husband had the Arendse special with mozzarella and proscuito and I had a Fields exclusive (I think.  Not entirely sure…).  Whatever it was, it was delicious.

On our last visit, I discovered Istid, but as it was Christmas and Istid is an ice cream shop, it was of course closed.  So this was the first time I’ve tried the store that I’ve followed on Instagram for 3 years.  We considered going to their new Nordhavn store, but decided instead to pick up our treats at Jægersborggade.  This is honestly the most incredible ice cream – making it with liquid nitrogen makes it so smooth.  We sat in the shade in Assistens Kirkegård across the road on the morning of my birthday eating spectacular sundaes – I was having the time of my life!

It wouldn’t be a trip to Copenhagen with some kind of kanelbullar.  On this trip, we had a kanelsnegl from Holm Bageri and a kanelstykke from Lagkagehuset (both in Frederiksberg).  Both were delicious as each other, with the coffee from Lagkagehuset slightly tastier making that our favourite breakfast.

And on the subject of coffee, we went back to the Original Coffee at the top of Illums on a few occasions because Husband became addicted to espresso tonics.  Even though the cafe is in a huge department store and we assumed it would get busy, we always found a seat so we’re now claiming this as our secret hotspot.  You heard it here first folks (to be fair, everyone probably thinks this is their secret hotspot).

One last place for a shout-out, even though we didn’t stop here, was the cafe in Magasin Du Nord which I think was called Coffee Industry Sweden.  There were very few people here, and the decor was beautiful.  If we hadn’t filled up on Espresso Tonic, we would have snuggled in here.

48 Hours in Copenhagen

We don’t normally celebrate our wedding anniversary – it’s too close to both our birthdays and the start of the academic year, so no really effort is made and we’re both fine with that.

This year however, we thought we should do something special to mark the big 1-0. Our immediate thought – Copenhagen. Our favourite city to spend time in. The last time we visited was back in 2015 when we spent 5 days over Christmas just wandering around with big coats on. This time, we’d have just 48 hours to absorb as much Scandi culture as we could.

We stayed at the Bella Sky again, which was mostly fine. We’re used to the hotel being very quiet, but as we were still in tourist season, it was fit to burst with huge groups of tourists. I don’t know that I’d necessarily recommend this hotel, but it suited us for two days.

So what did we pack into those 48 hours? A lot of walking primarily, and visiting areas of the city that we haven’t visited before. Frederiksberg became our new favourite suburb, but we also had a wander around Amagerbro and the area around the DR studios (‘DR City’ as it’s known).

And we finally crossed the Inderhavnsbroen (Inner Harbour Bridge) from Nyhavn to Christianshavn after watching it being built over many years. We even got to stand on the bridge as it did the crazy opening thing (which surely cannot be safe???) – the middle of the bridge splits open to allow tall ships to sail through. Madness.

We didn’t eat loads of food, but enough to make a blog post about so that will follow, but definitely our favourite new stop for coffee with a view was the Original Coffee at the top of Illums. We went here several times – definitely a favourite new hang-out spot for us. And look at this view:

We of course explored both Illums and Magasin but we weren’t in the city to shop (which is just as well as the exchange rate was a disaster). Just across from Illums on Strøget is Hay House – an interior design wonderland. Two floors of beautiful Hay products, set out like a Danish apartment and almost like a museum. I was in heaven, but again that pesky exchange rate shattered my dreams buying it all. Instead, I just took a million photos so that when I win the lottery, I can re-create Hay House back in the UK.

I did manage to get a small memento however. Many years ago when Husband was on one of his many work trips to CPH, he stumbled across an independent jewellers called Ladyfingers – a shop featuring the work of female jewellery designers. I didn’t ever get a chance to visit on our previous trips, but I finally made it there this time and bought a beautiful necklace from Winberg Jewellery. The shop it situated on Jægersborggade which is an insanely trendy street and such a treat to visit. Wandering down here made for a pretty perfect Saturday afternoon.

In fact, everything we did made for a perfect trip. This was my 5th time in the city and Husband’s millionth, so we don’t feel the need to do all the touristy things. Just walking around, people-watching, and falling in love with the architecture (like the Mountain Dwellings building below) is satisfying enough for us.

Copenhagen

Nyhavn

Iconic Nyhavn

Having a husband who works for a Danish company means that every now and again, I get an (almost) free trip to Copenhagen.  I haven’t been for about a year, and I was starting to get withdrawal symptoms so when Husband started planning meetings with his Danish co-workers, I started planning shopping and sightseeing.

It was lovely and cold when I landed on Tuesday (but not quite cold enough for snow – boo!) and after checking in to the hotel, we went straight out to Tight for dinner.  I hadn’t been here before, but it was perfect – perfect food, perfect atmosphere, perfect music playlist, and we had a really great evening.

Wednesday morning, and Husband went off to work (aww, sad), leaving me to have a very lazy morning.  I had a late breakfast in Baresso when I got to Fields Mall.  I was a few days too early for their 10th birthday celebration, but I still had a good morning of window shopping.

I had a three day pass on the Metro so I figured I may as well use it, so from Ørestad I took the M1 back up to Christianshavn, changed over to the M2 and got out at Øresund.  I had clicked around my phone that morning in the hotel room trying to find random things to do, and one of the things that popped up was Amager Strandpark – a beach park a few miles south of the city centre.  Even though it was February, it was so lovely and I spent a couple of hours wandering on the beach taking photos.

Back on the Metro at Femøren, and I got back to the room about an hour before Husband got back from work after spending quite a lot of money on a mocha.  With the addition of Google Now into my life, I had a regular reminder of the exchange rate right there on my phone, so for the first time I had a bit more awareness of how much stuff cost.  That was a mistake – I’d rather not know!  My mocha (with an extra shot of espresso) was £5.60.  £5.60!!!  No one ever said Copenhagen was cheap, so thank god for the free stuff I had found to do.

That evening, we went to Halifax which is my favourite restaurant in the entire world.  I could happily eat here every single day.  Not even exaggerating.

Thursday was another lazy day, with a slow walk down to the Royal Library for breakfast and some reading (you have to read in a library of course).  I walked around Strøget after that, stopping in at Illums Bolighus and Magasin Du Nord for some wish list lusting.

We got home late Thursday, and my whirlwind trip to Copenhagen left me so so tired.  Thank goodness it didn’t leave me broke as well – it’s a very good job I didn’t have any luggage allowance otherwise I would have bought pretty much everything in the above photos.